The differences between Bolivia and Argentina were immediately apparent in Salta with trendy cafés, boutiques and supermarkets popping up, and the disappearance of traditional dress in the crowds. There is also the return of McDonalds (Bolivia is the only country to bankrupt McDonalds because local food is so much cheaper) which we celebrated accordingly. We also came back down to earth with a bang as we remembered that Bolivia prices are not the norm - budgets start today!
We stayed in Backpackers Suite and Bar, which is the first place that I'm going to say I do not recommend. The accommodation was fine and the location was good but the staff were so unhelpful that it bordered on being nasty and was totally unnecessary.
We had hoped to do a tour that takes you outside of Salta along the Tren de Los Nubes (Train of the Clouds) route, past the Rainbow Mountain and on to Salinas Grandes Salt Flats. Unfortunately all of these tours were booked and we resigned to the fact that we are not supposed to see ANY Salt Flats on this trip!
Instead, we decided to spend the day exploring Salta for ourselves, but we didn't realise just how seriously Salta takes its siesta. The whole town basically shuts down from 1pm until about 5pm, which made exploring a little difficult. We made the most of it with lots of people watching and cups of tea to warm us up - did I mention it was "uncharacteristically" FREEZING the entire time we were there?!
We did however get to visit the incredible MAMA museum which is home to a one-of-a-kind exhibit.
In 1999, close to the summit of Mount Llullaillaco, the mummies of 3 children were discovered. These children were sacrificed by the Incas as part of a religious ceremony, up so high that they were already close to the gods. They were from noble families and chosen for their exceptional physical beauty, and it was thought that they would go straight from this life to the next. They trekked to the summit of the volcano where they took part in religious ceremonies and were given alcohol to drink until they fell asleep. Then, they were buried alive with their toys and trinkets. They froze to death as they slept, and 500 years later still look like sleeping children, not mummies. The snow and the thin air on top of the volcano preserved them perfectly. Their skin, physical features and clothes are still intact, there was even blood still present in their heart and lungs 500 years later.
The museum only displays one mummy at a time, as well as the offerings that were found along with them. We saw the body of "the boy", who looked like he would wake up at any minute.
The next day we made like the locals and spend the day on an authentic ranch in the hills, with a company called Cabalgatas Gauchas. This was definitely the highlight of Salta as we spent the day horse riding in the mountains with incredible views... and a slightly crazy Gaucho!
We came back to the ranch and had a mouthwatering BBQ where we finally got to sample some famous Argentinian steak and red wine - hands down the best meal I've had in South America and looking forward to more of it!
Our gaucho drove us back to our hostel through a different area of Salta with beautiful houses and parks and I started to get a glimpse into what the guide books talk about when they describe the beauty of the region. But just when I was getting a taste for Salta, it was time to leave (on the longest bus we've braved so far: 20 hours, eek).
Next stop: Mendoza
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