Ilha Grande, Brazil

It was an early start as we left our hostel in Rio and drove 2 hours to the port of Angra Dos Reis to catch a 1 hour ferry to Ilha Grande. 

Ilha Grande is an incredible island surrounded by paradise beaches, waterfalls hidden away in the cover of the rainforest and a sleepy fishing village with boats bobbing around on perfect turquoise water. It's hard to image that the island was once a leper colony (hope they rinsed it down since then) and then a penitentiary where political prisoners were held alongside some of Brazil’s most violent criminals. There's no sign of the island's unsavory history to be seen however, just beautiful tropical beaches and virgin Atlantic rainforest. The only transport around the island is on foot or by boat - and we did plenty of both.

We arrived early and the sun was shining so we decided there was no time like the present to visit one of the island's main attractions Lopez Mendez beach (currently voted the 7th most beautiful beach in the world). 

The water was a lot choppier than expected and we were bounced around on the boat to the island but it didn't take too long to arrive at a tiny beach. It was pretty but we were a bit disappointed... Until we realised we had to trek to the other side of the hill to find the actual Lopez Mendes, phew! After a short hike (in which we somehow managed to genuinely lose Johnny for a while in the woods), there was no doubting that we had found the right place. Lopes Mendez was stunning. 

A million miles from any beach I have ever seen before, no deck chairs or umbrellas, just wide open sand and crystal clear water crashing in every direction. 

I actually "frolicked". 

I would have spent a week on that beach but as the clouds rolled in a few hours later it was time to head back. The next hour and a half was spend on a tiny fishing boat being absolutely battered by the biggest waves I have ever seen. As the driver resigned to turning the engine off and letting the waves crash us around, there was an eerie silence on-board as nobody wanted to admit that we were all equally terrified. When we finally reached dry land with shaky legs and green faces we were told they what we experienced was not the norm and that there was a storm rolling in. We were on other boats in the days following and they were a lot more tranquil, we were just very unlucky that day. But sure look at me, here to tell the tale! 

The next day we decided to skip the boat and hike through the rainforest in search of Feiticeira Waterfall. The trek was 2 hours but didn't feel that long as we walked through bamboo forests, stopped at small lagoons and spotted monkeys playing in the trees. 

 

It was (as one may expect of a tropical forest) feckin' ROASTING though and we were glad of a dip when we arrived at the waterfall. Iguazu Falls it was not, but very pretty all the same!

Johnny spent some time channeling Peter Andre in the Mysterious Girl video (which has since become our Ilha Grande soundtrack!) and then we walked a further 20 minutes to Feiticeira Beach. This one was much smaller than Lopez Mendes but just as gorgeous. 

Later on we ended up at a bonfire on the beach until 3am. When we realised that the fire-starter guy was throwing wooden chairs from a restaurant onto the fire, we chose to believe him when he said they were broken. We also made friends with some street dogs.

The next few days were cloudy so we spent them chilling out at the hostel willing the sun to come back. One afternoon Karen and I rented a kayak from an absolute lunatic with a whistle and the most fabulous head of hair, but it was a little much like hard work in the end! 

The little town itself in Ilha Grande is teeny tiny but there are lots of fab restaurants there, infact some of the best food we have had in Brazil (we visited the crepe restaurant in particular more than was necessary!). There is NO ATM however which was a pain in the butt. 

We stayed in El Misti Hostel again. It was a great place to meet people and very chilled out and they give you cake for breakfast - winner! But I did go to a party in Che Legarto one night and had definite hostel envy as it looked much more modern. But nevertheless we extended our stay in El Misti hoping to chase the sun for a little longer. We left after 4 nights a little browner and very relaxed. If you get the weather, Ilha Grande is absolutely a little slice of paradise. 

Next Stop: Paraty