Balangan and Uluwatu (The Bukit Peninsula), Bali

Traveling around South America was a very different experience to traveling in South East Asia. For one thing, we were hyper-organised for South America and knew where we wanted to be and when we needed to be there. Since we have arrived Indonesia however we have been going with the flow and deciding where we want to go next at the drop of a hat - and I love it! We would literally be lost without our Lonely Planet book though and I can't recommend it enough. So with the help of The Book we decided to take a trip to The Bukit Peninsula, which is renowned for its beaches and surfing, as well as the Temple of Uluwatu. But another big difference between here and South America (where you could get a bus to absolutely anywhere at any time of day or night) is that public transport in Indonesia is basically nonexistent. So we booked a transfer from Kuta to Balangan with our hotel, and most likely got ripped off!

We had booked accommodation in Balangan (The Balangan Inn) and wondered why our driver found this so funny. All became clear when we arrived and realised that where we were staying was quite... rural! So when we checked in the guy at reception gave us 2 keys, one to our room (a very romantic little bungalow with a 4 poster bed) and a key to our very own moped, which we both stood and looked at blankly for a moment. The moped was only 70,000RPH for the day and by far our best (and only!) option for getting around. So after a 20 second lesson we were handed an expired Indonesian driver's license and 2 helmets, given directions ("that way"), and off we set down winding roads to find Balangan Beach.

Thankfully we found it easily enough and it was drop dead gorgeous, as well as jammed with surfers who provide the entertainment on the massive waves.

We spent a few hours sunbathing and watching the surfers and then set off for Uluwatu. The best time to go to Uluwatu temple is around 4.30pm to have a look around and then watch the Sunset Kecak Dance performance at 6pm. Also, be forewarned warned about the monkeys who are terrifying, thieving bastards!

It quickly became apparent that Karen had nerves of steel on the moped while I just had regular nerves, so she was nominated to do the half hour drive to the temple. It was a bit further than we thought in very busy traffic and we had a few hairy moments but it was all worth it when the temple came into view perched right on the edge of a sheer cliff with waves crashing all around.

 

We had a wander around and managed to avoid the monkeys (did I mention they are huge and have fangs and steal from children?!) and then took our seats for the Kecak Dance at sunset.
It was like nothing I have ever experienced, I will remember it forever.
First, a fire is lit in the center of the arena.

Then the chanting erupts from all around as about 40 men and boys burst out and sit in a circle around the flames.

  

I can't do it justice to describe the performance, it's almost like a trance as the relentless chack-a-chack-a-chack chant never stops or quietens and female dancers move and swish around the flames portraying ancient folklore stories. You become completely mesmerised, almost dizzy as you watch and listen. And all the while the setting sun is the backdrop.

HOWEVER! As the sun got lower and lower in the sky we began to realise that would be driving home in the dark, on a moped, with one headlight and no directions. Crap. Things started off very well though, we bought petrol out of a vodka bottle from a stall on the side of the road for 70,000RPH (45c!) which felt promising:

And we even managed to find our way back to the main part of town for a little pitstop to calm the nerves! Then we found the road that definitely led back to our hostel and we knew that in 10 minutes we would be back from our adventure. An hour later after driving down at least 7 pitch black roads, on the verge of tears having been chased by a pack of street dogs, we were lost. It was luck that got us back to the hostel, no idea how we found it again, but we were badly in need of a drink and a hug! 

Our vow to never, ever get on a moped again if our lives depended on it was short lived as we rented it again the next day to see Padang Padang beach. This was one of the main reasons we came to the Bukit Peninsula as we read that it was "small but perfect", "paradise", "a surfer's dream", "the Bali you always dreamed off"... 

What. A. Let. Down. 

The best thing about Padang Padang beach is seeing people's reactions when they realise that they are actually in the right place and this is Padang Padang beach, everyone is disgusted! It was tiny, not even room to put down a towel, and crowded with sellers and cigarette buts. It wasn't even that pretty and the current was too strong to swim. We sat in disappointed silence for about 10 minutes before we decided to head back to Balangan Beach which is a million times nicer. 

After a day of sunbathing we were lucky enough to find a small crowd of people doing yoga on the beach at sunset. The teacher is there most days and the class is free but you can give a donation at the end. I have never done yoga before and had to suppress a serious case of the giggles every time he told us to "keep our spineys straight". At one stage I thought he told us to "be avare of our food and coffee", but he was actually talking about our "foots and calfeys" - that nearly send me over the edge! But I thoroughly enjoyed it and he was a very knowledgeable yogi. He invited us to jam with him later that night too, but due to lack of jamming skills we politely declined! 

Next Stop: Nusa Lembongan, Southern Bali